Negroni Do-Over

Yesterday we were warned of an ensuing snow storm of biblical proportions — okay, maybe not biblical but pretty bad. Thirty centimeters  of snow (almost a foot), within 24 hours. Air Canada had canceled flights before the storm even arrived and by morning, over 300 flights were cancelled. We live an hour away from work in the burbs and even though we have Swedish snow tires on our little Honda Civic Hybrid, the chances of getting to work without damage to our car or ourselves from those driving on summer or all weather tires seemed slim, which could only mean one thing…


So, last night I unpicked my inside and outside yokes, shoulder seams and collar on the Negroni shirt and began trying different methods of getting the yokes and collar attached in a way that there were no gaps. Before I went to bed at 10:00, I still hadn’t been successful. While laying in bed I thought that perhaps I could attach the yokes to to the collar and front facings as Sarai had but attach the bottom of the yokes to the back of the shirt as Kwik Sew does but as a last step, not first.

So that’s where I am now, after getting up at 5:00 to email my boss, I went back to bed till 8:00, it’s 8:23 now and I’m still not fully awake. After I get going, I’ll post my successes and failures this afternoon.

Update 11:24 a.m.

My plan to merge directions from the Negroni pattern and Kwik Sew just didn’t pan out, I always ended up with that darn gap or I couldn’t incorporate the collar! At this point, I’ve unpicked so many times, my fabric is starting to disintegrate. I’ve decided to follow the Kwik Sew instructions to avoid the gap and this means drafting a new collar as I had already trimmed my original collar. Using the Negroni collar pattern piece, I added 3/4″ to the neck edge so I’d have more fabric to play with — 1″ total seam allowance — and since I ran out of my muslin fabric, I had to dig out some flannel from my stash.

More to come, pictures too!

Update 1:03 p.m.

Success! I ripped almost everything out again and started over using the Kwik Sew method. First I sandwiched the back piece between yokes, right sides facing in. Your outside yoke and back will have right sides together. Sew and press yokes upward as shown below.

Attaching Yokes to Back

Pin your right (or left) shoulder to you back yoke, right sides facing in. Sweep your right front and back pieces to the side and out of the way.

Pin front shoulder to yokes

Bringing the inside yoke forward, pin the three layers together and sew seam.

After sewing seam, tun work inside out, voila! A nice neat yoke and collar edge.

Yokes attached to front and back pieces neatly.

Next I drafted a new collar piece adding more seam allowance. I ran out of muslin fabric so I had to cut the back collar out of plain flannel.

New Collar

Sew the collar front to the collar back, starting at the middle of the collar and moving toward the outside edge. Leave notched side open. Turn inside out and press. Press outer edge of  inside collar to the inside (of the collar) — I should have done this before putting the collar together but forgot..

New Collar

Sew outside collar to neck, right sides facing. I matched centres then worked my way out. Next I pinned the inside collar to the inside neck edge, covering the seam allowances. I was going to hand sew it with a whip stitch but I machine sewed it instead.

Pin inside collar to neck.

Unless you wear your collar up, you won’t see under the collar. If this were my shirt and not a muslin, I wouldn’t leave it like this, I would hand sew the inside collar to the shirt.

Here’s the result:

Negroni the Kwik Sew Way


Although this worked, I’m not going to use the Negroni pattern for my finished shirt. I’m going to stick with my Kwik Sew 2777 which is a TNT. They fit TDF well, he likes them and I like how everything fits together. It was great working with a new men’s shirt pattern, even if it didn’t work out for me, it was fun and challenging trying to work out the yoke issue I had with this shirt.

And now, your moment of zen.


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